End of the journey for No Regrets – Spring 2023

It’s with sadness that we have decided to part ways with our 1980 Fast Passage 39, No Regrets. We are in no way ready to end our cruising journey, and because of this, we decided we needed a bit more comfort and room to continue this lifestyle. Since we don’t have a land-based residence anymore, we are carrying way more stuff than we probably would if we had a place to store things that we need, but don’t necessarily need on the boat all the time.

All our past sailing on No Regrets had been a week or two at a time, and in no way did we carry all of our belongings and tools with us. Once we moved aboard full time it became a different story. The passage to San Diego was tolerable, and while in San Diego we had a storage locker at the marina where we offloaded a lot of the things we didn’t need regularly. That made living at the marina in San Diego tolerable for the year we were there. Once we left San Diego and had nowhere to offload our stuff, even temporarily, we found living on a very cramped boat became quite difficult and not enjoyable. Our discussions about leaving sailing life, or continuing to cruise, were prompted by these living conditions.

We decided to sell No Regrets to keep cruising in mid-2022, while we were in Panama. We took a quick trip in August 2022 to Florida and South Carolina to look at some Manta catamarans. We weren’t ready to purchase but did want to see some in person to confirm a Manta catamaran was what we wanted.

Insurance required us to stay in Panama until December, so when we left Shelter Bay Marina in early November, we decided to make a beeline to Florida to put No Regrets on the market and start looking for our next boat.

Our temporary apartment

We put No Regrets on the market when we got to St Petersburg, FL, at the beginning of February 2023 and started fixing and cleaning her up. We moved off the boat for two months into a fully furnished and very small ADU (Accessory Dwelling Unit) over the owner’s garage. The owner also let us store all our stuff from No Regrets in their garage (very nice) so we could have everything off the boat to do the work we needed to do and stage her for showings.

We had our first offer in early April, but it fell through. We then had several more people look at the boat, but no bites. We finally received another offer and we are now under contract. We’re hoping she closes this time and No Regrets moves on to new owners.

Here in Florida, almost all boats have built-in air conditioning, which No Regrets doesn’t have. This was a detractor for selling her here. Also, the age of the boat (1980) made it impossible for a buyer to get a loan, and many insurance companies wouldn’t insure a boat that old. These were strikes against us getting what we wanted for No Regrets, so we settled for a bit less than we would have liked to get. We were also under the gun to move our new boat out of Florida before July 1st (hurricane season for our insurance company) and not be left with No Regrets burning money in a slip at the rate of about $1300/month without us there to take care of her. Not the best of situations, but it’s only money, right?

Our new catamaran

We have purchased a 2008 Manta 42 Mk IV catamaran, named Cerca Trova (google it to find the meaning). These were US-built catamarans that were produced between 1994 and 2008. We have the last one built, hull # 127. We are currently trying to find the space for all the stuff we had on No Regrets, do a few updates, clean (it wasn’t as clean as we kept No Regrets), and do some minor repairs (both bilge pump switches went out within a couple of weeks of one another).

Lynette enjoying the sea trial

Florida has a sales tax on boats, new and used. It’s 7% of the selling price up to $18,000 (they cap it at $18,000 to help the rich when they buy mega-yachts). We did find a legal way to not pay sales tax for a boat purchased in Florida. There are two ways. First, leave the state with the boat within 10 days of the closing date, and second, pay $50 for a permit to leave Florida with the boat within 90 days of the closing date. We opted for the second option and paid $50 to save $18,000 in taxes. We also had to show proof we left the state, which is usually a fuel receipt or slip receipt.

The former owner offers helm instructions

Trying to sell one boat at the same time as purchasing another, was very stressful for us. I wouldn’t recommend it to anyone. If I had it to do over again, I would sell No Regrets first, and then look at what Manta’s were on the market once she sold. That seems like the logical approach, but I was fearing we would miss out on the right Manta if we waited for No Regrets to sell. There aren’t many Mantas for sale so that contributed to our stress.

We are now comfortably living on Cerca Trova preparing her for our first voyage back to the east coast of Florida. The plan is to cruise up the east coast of the US this summer and head to the East Caribbean this coming Winter. Stay tuned for more as we start this new chapter.

Florida – Winter 2022/23

In our last post, we were leaving Brown’s Marina on Bimini starting our crossing of the Gulf Stream to Florida. I had been watching the weather via PredictWind and saw that the evening of December 15, 2022, looked promising for a smooth crossing. The wind would be light and blowing north, and the passage to West Palm Beach was only 77nm.

A note about crossing the Gulf Stream: never cross if the wind is coming from any northern direction. It causes rough conditions with the Gulf Stream current that can be very unpleasant to dangerous depending on the wind strength.

Going north on the ICW

Our crossing was uneventful. So uneventful that our logbook app, Nebo, decided to mess up and not record the entire crossing including all the notes I took along the way. It started recording again, as soon as we got to Florida. Go figure. At some point during the night, we crossed the Gulf Stream, but the conditions were so calm we didn’t know when we had crossed it. We arrived at Lake Worth Inlet near West Palm Beach, Florida, at about 5 am. It was dark and I didn’t want to go through the inlet in the dark, so we floated outside until daybreak and followed a small cruise ship through the inlet. From the inlet, we turned right and headed up the ICW (Intracoastal Waterway) to our reserved slip at Titusville Marina.

Indiantown Road bascule bridge

There are two types of bridges on the ICW; fixed bridges that are roughly 65’ high, and drawbridges that require a call on VHF channel 9 for an opening. The drawbridges are bascule bridges that open by pivoting the roadway up from one or both sides. We tested our height under the first fixed bridge by cautiously motoring up to and then under the bridge. From the boat deck, it always looks like you are going to hit the bridge from that viewing angle. We had plenty of room as our air draft is only 59’.

When we arrived at our first drawbridge, we didn’t know the etiquette for hailing bridges on the ICW, so we followed another boat that had just hailed the bridge for an opening. I thought that it only took one boat to call for an opening. We were informed by the bridge tender that all boats that want to pass, must hail the bridge for an opening. A few bridge tenders ask for boat dimensions and others don’t. Some bridges have fixed opening times. These can be on the hour and half hour or quarter and three-quarter hour. Other bridges are open on request. I like those bridges as they open whenever you arrive. For some bridges, we missed the opening time and had to wait half an hour for the next opening.

The southern Florida ICW is quite busy with lots of motorboats creating wakes every time they speed by. The ICW in much of this busy area is lined with expensive homes on each side. Almost all had docks and boat lifts for their motorboats. As we left the more populated areas, the ICW widened with fewer homes along the shores and much less traffic.

We anchored the first night around 5 pm near Fort Pierce by pulling off to the side out of the channel. The only thing to watch out for is the water depth. It can get shallow very quickly once outside the ICW channel. We had gone 47nm since we entered the ICW that morning.

We left the next morning and missed the first bridge opening so had to wait 30 minutes for the next one. Timing is everything. Speaking of timing, we ran out of fuel in our main tank and switched to the side tank for the rest of the trip to Titusville. We hadn’t fueled up since Highborne Key in the Bahamas. We would certainly need fuel when we arrived in Titusville. The day’s passage was uneventful. We timed our next anchorage based on our speed (about 5 knots) and found a nice wide spot in the ICW to pull off and anchor called Honeymoon Bay. We had logged 50.8nm for the day.

Titusville Marina

It is now December 18, 2022, and we were almost to Titusville Marina. We only had 23.5nm left to reach the marina. The reason we had to go so far north was Titusville Marina was the only marina that could accommodate us for a month. We arrived around 12:30 pm and it was blowing 20+ knots. The slips were narrow and had pilings for the outside corners that were very difficult to negotiate. We did a little damage on our hull trying to get in and it required 4 dock hands to tie dock lines to No Regrets and muscle her into the slip as we didn’t have enough power to turn the bow through the wind to get into the slip. Whew! What an ordeal. I wish it hadn’t been blowing so hard.

The glow of the heater
Enjoying Christmas Eve

We spent Christmas and New Year’s at Titusville Marina. It was cold, compared to the tropics. We dug out warm clothes and jackets as the nighttime temperatures dropped into the low 30s. We even fired up the diesel heater on several occasions to take the chill out of the boat.

SpaceX rocket launch

We found out from some marina tenants that SpaceX was going to launch a rocket from Cape Canaveral one night, so we stayed up until 11 pm to watch the event. Neither of us had seen a live rocket launch before, so we were excited to see the event. I noticed a bright light off in the distance and wondered what it was. Within 30 seconds I realized it was the glow from the rocket engines as the rocket was ascending. We were too far away to see anything but the glow. There wasn’t even any sound, as the wind was blowing toward the rocket from us, blowing the sound away. We watched and then saw the booster come back down. It was exciting even though we were quite far away. We found a website that provides information and live coverage of all rocket launches at Cape Canaveral, so found several more launch dates, and watched those launches as well. One was a heavy rocket with two boosters. We could hear the roar of the rockets during that launch, but only faintly due to the distance.

While we were in Titusville, we rented a car to go look at several catamarans that were for sale. We had seen two of them before when we flew up from Panama the previous summer, but we were serious now and were actively looking to replace No Regrets.

We met a couple doing laundry at the marina who recommended a guy in St Petersburg to sell our boat. We reached out to him and decided to take No Regrets to St Petersburg to have him sell her for us. So, on January 22, 2023, we untied the dock lines at 8:40 am and headed south to go around Florida to the west coast.

We backtracked south anchoring at several different places until we reached Fort Lauderdale. This was a 164.2nm passage over 3 days. We took a slip there for several nights as we wanted to see some Panama Posse friends we had met in San Diego. We also met up with the person who purchased my business. He and his wife were spending the winter in Miami and were on their way to meet someone and were passing by Fort Lauderdale, so they stopped by to see us. All-in-all the time in Fort Lauderdale was a nice distraction from the daily grind of motoring on the ICW, and it was great to see both couples again.

Miami skyline at night

We were back on track and heading to the Keys on January 27, 2023. We had to leave the ICW at Fort Lauderdale, as there was a bridge along the way that was broken and could not be raised, so we motored out of the channel and into the ocean. The wind was on the beam so we sailed most of the way to Biscayne Bay, our next anchorage, a 33.8nm passage. It was so nice to not have the sound of the engine for this leg of the trip.

Cape Florida lighthouse

We anchored at Biscayne Bight for two nights, as there was a storm moving through the area. We were across the bay from downtown Miami and the city lights were quite impressive. A good weather window presented itself to get us to Marathon with only a single stop at Rodriguez Key. So, on the morning of January 29, 2023, we weighed anchor and headed west to Rodriguez Key, a 47.6nm passage.

Sunrise leaving Rodriguez Key

We had the wind on our beam, so we sailed at least half the distance to Rodriguez Key. Rodriguez Key is just a small bit of land that offers some protection from the wind. We tucked in behind the key and dropped the hook in the late afternoon. We find that these short (40nm +/-), day sails suit us much better than overnighters or multiple-day passages. Maybe if we had one more person, it would be less tiring, but as it stands, with just the two of us, we haven’t gotten into a good routine for the longer passages.

Close reach down Hawk Channel

The next day we close reached on a port tack to Marathon, a 44.6nm passage. There were plenty of crab pots to dodge along the way to keep us on our toes. We arrived at 4 pm on the 30th with plenty of time to pick a good spot to anchor. The anchorage was a bit crowded, but we found a reasonable spot in 11’ of water.

Sundowners at Marathon anchorage

We left the next morning for the longest passage since the Bahamas, 216nm. It was to be our last passage on No Regrets. The passage took two days and we arrived in St Petersburg on February 2, 2023 at 9:00 am. We motored some and sailed some depending on the wind direction and speed. On the first day the conditions were perfect to fly the spinnaker so I set it and had a good run of several hours on spinnaker and main.

Flying the spinnaker

Crab pots were plenty and we had been warned by several sailors that Florida Bay was best transited during the day to avoid the crab pots. Each one said the crab pots diminish once you reach Cape Romano, so we were trying to get that far during daylight. I was a little nervous as night fell, fearing that we might snag a crab pot during the night. In the morning we were still sailing so we hadn’t snagged any crab pots. Interestingly, we were still seeing many crab pots north of Cape Romano, which was a bit unsettling as we must have passed many during the night. I shudder to think about it.

Sunshine Skyway Bridge

Entering Tampa Bay was a bit tricky as there are some keys and shallows at the entrance, so I paid close attention to the charts and depth gauge as we passed the shallows. Seeing the Sunshine Skyway Bridge in the early morning light, was spectacular. After the bridge we turned north toward St Petersburg and the end of this passage. We were dead tired when we arrived at 9 am. Despite being tired, I successfully backed No Regrets into our slip. Then we slept.